Noh Theater Robe, Karaori type, 18^th century
Japanese, Edo period
Metallic and glossed silk brocade on an unglossed twill-weave silk ground
Founders Society Purchase, Henry Ford II Fund
1984.23

Restrained, formal, and masked, Noh dramas developed into the national theater of Japan under the patronage of the shoguns. An all-male cast of performers combines mime, music, chant, and costume. The drama is set against an austere and unchanging stage with a lone, ancient pine painted on the back wall; robes set the mood. An actor's inspired selection of a costume signifies masterful role interpretation.

This robe is a karaori, an outer robe generally used for women's roles and the most resplendent of all Noh costumes. Originally, karaori, meaning "Chinese weaving", described imported, figured fabrics; later it referred to elaborate brocades woven in the Nishijin district of Kyoto. The contrasting types of silk give this robe extraordinary subtlety and depth. This robe, with a design of butterflies, chrysanthemums, and grasses, was used for plays in which autumnal imagery was prominent.